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South Crack is a great climb that begins with several pitches of gradually steepening clean 5.8 finger cracks and then finishes with some rather run out 5.7+ slabs to the summit. Begin at the southernmost foot of the dome, right of the Great White Book. Scramble up 4th class ledges and low angle rock towards the obvious crack/flake system until it becomes necessary to belay. Depending on your comfort level (or willingness to simul), you can eliminate a lot of belays by pushing the approach high. At the end of the cracks you'll find some wandering, unprotected slabs that lead to the summit. It may be best to head relatively straight up (easier), or to link small features (pro). Probably my favorite climb in Tuolumne.
With a 60m rope, start with a short pitch to the top of the 5.4 pillar (just before the step right). Now P2 is a single, long 5.8 finger crack pitch to the great ledge. P3 follows the crack up and right until it peters out. The traditional route goes up and part the left side of the roof and is 5.7 (runout). I prefer to go up and right on runout 5.5 face (see SuperTopo) and then finish on the easy (and well protected) class 5 & class 4 corner to the top. I think the right variation is much less scary (really only a 20 & 25' runout on 5.5) and makes it possible to avoid a cluster of climbers on the left.
First time on Stately Pleasure dome. The first pitch is probably the best climbing. The next two pitches continue to the cracks end. Then, you get to the slab climbing on pitch 4, which is where the fun begins. We went left across the slab for the 5.7 version. The next 3 pitches are all slab and deserve the 'R' rating. If you don't have much experience on this type of climbing be ready for some excitement.
I found the walk off pretty straight forward. I had heard comments that it's super sketchy. If wet there is some dark rock about halfway down that was pretty slick and the crux of the descent. This could be easily rapped from a large tree. Overall I loved the climb and it's totally worth doing. Jul 27, 2016.
Excellent climb. To stay on route, locate the right-angling crack from the road. It is approximately 100 yards to the right/east of Great White Book, and above the right side of the bushes there. You climb up easy flakes and stuff, then take a spicier step right to enter the crack. Stay in the crack alllll the way!
When the crack literally ends/tapers out to face, you need to runout some face climbing (5.7). I went the path of least resistance basically straight up.
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I found a nut placement about 30ft up, and then joined a crack another 30ft up and left from there (2'). It gets lower angle and easier.
Go towards a tree. Keep your feet often smearing below the crack, and try to save your pro. I used too much pro and setup an extra belay in the middle of the route. Jun 19, 2018. If you've got some smaller nuts I recommend taking the direct start right into the crack (starting over the small bulge) rather than doing the step across from the flakes. Felt about 5.9 and seemed pretty similar to the alternate start to nutcracker.
The crack thins out enough you can't get your fingers in it but there's enough there for your feet and the pods show up when you need them. The slab run-outs aren't as spicy as you'd imagine, but I would still recommend being confident on slab at a minimum. Stellar line! Jul 17, 2018.
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